Cébène lies almost at the northernmost edge of the appellation, fairly secluded yet strikingly beautiful, at 300 metres above sea level, on schist, beneath the watchful ridge of the Caroux massif. Whoever makes the journey here knows precisely why. Her estate—home, winery and cellar all under one roof—sits enthroned atop a solitary hill, exposed to the elements, and defies the adversities of nature up here with quiet confidence.

“Alors, here is Montpellier, here is Béziers—here is the département of Hérault, and we must be somewhere around here. Here on the map, right next to the bakery. And on the other side of the river you have those high mountains.” The highest peak here carries a legend: they say it is the body of a sleeping goddess. Cebena. When she died, she left her form to the mountain.

Its secret lies in the stones

“When I present Cébène, I begin with three or four criteria: schist, north-facing vines, and the prevailing northerly winds descending from the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc. Most of my vineyards face north. Grenache to the north, Carignan to the north—almost everything to the north. Mourvèdre to the south.”

Faugères stands for Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. On schist, the wines become more elegant, their tannins gentle. Compared with clay and limestone, schist brings greater suppleness, lightness and subtlety. Brigitte continues: “For me, schist is the perfect foundation for crafting my wines as I like them. The vines must dig deep to reach water. The rain is stored far below for the dry season. The vines suffer no stress in summer. It brings remarkable balance to the vine’s nutrition. It is the sign of good terroir.”

And of course nature plays its part: the ceaseless winds sweeping down from the high plateau dry the plants almost instantly after rain. Pests struggle to settle, and subterranean streams descending from the mountains continuously supply this parched summer landscape with water and nutrients.

When Brigitte chose this place, there were around thirty producers in Faugères; today there are more than fifty. It is a highly dynamic appellation. She worked organically from the outset and swiftly converted to biodynamics. In 2023, Demeter certification followed as a logical consequence.

Led by the heart

“I bought these vines little by little and did everything myself: design, label—everything. I found it interesting to create a link between my wines and the history, the landscape and its femininity.” Sometimes newcomers dig deeper into a region’s past, eager to engage more intensely with a place they have chosen, of their own accord, to call home. “The lines on the labels represent something of that history—or air currents, like the winds up here.”

Brigitte Chevalier comes from Bordeaux, studied foreign languages and spent several years working for the French Embassy in Germany. Later she lived in Zimbabwe for three years. “After that, I wanted to come home. I wanted to follow my roots, to find my place.” The search for the perfect location for her project, however, took time. “Until I had the new cellar, I vinified in the neighbouring village. I bought this hill in 2011; in 2014 I was allowed to build house and cellar; in 2018 everything was finally completed.”

Five Voices, One Origin

Brigitte vinifies all her parcels separately and analyses their qualities in the vineyard itself. For Les Bancels, her benchmark wine, she works, for instance, with around eight different Syrah components. Les Bancels is indeed a benchmark: a terraced single vineyard, perfectly north-facing and utterly beautiful. When she drinks it, she says, she knows she is home—“with both feet on the ground.” For me, Les Bancels may well be the quintessential expression of its origin. It is my “best bet” when, like Brigitte, I want to come home—when I want to know exactly what I am getting. This is a wine I drink during the week, on my own—but also one I would gladly bring to a festive occasion or a serious gathering of wine-loving friends. It is terroir and joy in one.

Around it cluster the other four wines: The overture is Ex Arena. Her first wine. A cuvée of Grenache and Syrah, grown on sandy soils and shaped by sand. I adore Grenache on sand. The wine radiates extraordinary joy, touches me immediately, and is at once light, delicate and vibrant. What fascinates me is how clearly the vintages are reflected: at times cooler, fresher, marked by acidity and therefore tauter; at others warmer, more fruit-driven and fuller in presence. With a little bottle age, the wine transforms again and reveals yet another face. Most impressive of all was a 2009 vintage, cheekily presented blind as an apéritif by Pierre, Brigitte’s partner, which quite literally blew me away. An opening act—and a wine like that? More of this in my cellar, please.

Next comes À la Venvole. Now on schist. Again a cuvée of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah—a first, open glimpse of the Faugères terroir. Brigitte loves J.J. Cale, and so do I, and the song “Call Me the Breeze” describes this wine perfectly. It is rather modern and youthful in style. Lightly chilled, one or two bottles can disappear with ease. Yet first impressions can deceive here too: the wine lingers, possesses as much depth as its predecessor, and expresses its austere origin with striking clarity.

Then: Belle Lurette. Old-vine Carignan. Juicy. “Crafted with irresistible sappidity—the closest connection to my desire for transmission,” Brigitte describes this wine. Belle Lurette bridges classic Faugères and modernity. A true bridge wine, well represented on restaurant wine lists.

The finale is Felgaria. Almost exclusively Mourvèdre. Deep, enveloping, meditative. “Schist enables the tannin of Mourvèdre to soften, to deepen,” Brigitte enthuses. I, too, love Mourvèdre: the way it emerges from the depths, the velvety manner in which it enfolds you, opaque in the glass, impetuous in youth and breathtakingly seductive after several years of bottle age. “Thick, undulating air around you. Like being lost in the dark of night,” Brigitte concludes, rounding off my rapture.

The certainty of making something alive that endures

What also makes the appellation outstanding are its white wines—currently representing a mere four per cent, though the trend is rising. Brigitte is following suit and converted an entire vineyard to white varieties a few years ago. From 2026, a Blanc de Noir from Grenache will appear—presumably under the name À la Venvole Blanc. I am intrigued.

“Since 2019, I have used no wood. Wood allows the wine to breathe—but it also speaks. I want only the schist to speak.” Instead, Brigitte works with stoneware eggs from Limoges and terracotta jars from Italy. Amphorae allow only minimal air exchange. “If I need more, I aerate manually.”

“When I go to bed in the evening, I want to feel that I have helped the earth to regenerate.” She owns ten hectares. Ten hectares allowed to build up mineral matter and vegetation. “I am very proud of that. I try to speak about it as often as possible, to raise awareness—that one is responsible for one’s surroundings and that one can act to make things better. Tell me, which product other than vegetables is still one hundred per cent local? My wines are. Everything I need is here around me, and that delights me. Having chosen this path enriches my life—to have roots and purpose. And perhaps I inspire those who come here or appreciate my wines to implement something of it in their own environment.”

These wines are so fine, so elegant and so beautifully mutable in maturity. They are simply beautiful—and I would argue that Faugères, with its unique geology, its wind and the visionary hands of someone possessed of such passion, is currently producing the finest wines of the Languedoc. So there it is—my renewed declaration of love to this region, its wines and its producers.

—

Domaine de Cébène

Route de Caussiniojouls, D154, 34600 Faugères

Buy her wines here

The question is a complex one. I want to start at the beginning, though I might jump ahead, circle back, and start over again – because Jérôme is anything but linear.

So, from the top: I first met Jérôme Lejeune during my time as a wine buyer at Tesdorpf. He represented several Spanish wineries we worked with, and I’d run into him here and there – at tastings in different cities, at trade fairs, or in those anonymous hotel lobbies where wine people gather to talk business, laugh a little, drink a glass, and share stories.

I like Jérôme. He’s one of the warmest, kindest people I’ve met in this industry – and at the same time, one of the most restless and spontaneous. No matter when, Jérôme always replies. From a sleepy airport somewhere in southern France, or the rugged hills of the Sierra Cantabria.

He’s a whirlwind. Hard to pin down, many-sided, always all in. And he brings a deeply philosophical attitude to wine – its cultural roots, its history, its meaning.

He has a voice. And something to say.

But as I said: let me start again.

I meet Jérôme in Berlin's Prenzlauer Berg, right in the heart of trendy Kollwitzkiez, where a year ago he opened his wine room, "Chez Jérôme." A long-held dream that, as he puts it, destiny pretty much dropped at his feet.

After more than twelve years as brand ambassador for Miguel Torres, and later for the Berlin-based wine importer Solovino, Jérôme was constantly on the move: from A to B, from fair to fair. But wine connects, and the desire for something steady – a place where people could come together – kept growing stronger.

I’d always enjoyed our meetings and shared trips, and I wanted to learn more about the idea behind his wine room. So I wrote down a few questions and set out to do a little interview. But, as so often with Jérôme, things didn’t go as planned.

On Rykestrasse 37, tucked between two yoga studios, sits Jérôme’s wine room. Barely noticeable from the outside, almost too small to be real – yet filled with atmosphere. One room, one table, one soul. Soft, indirect light. Classical music hums from an old tube radio – no Spotify playlist, no Bluetooth fuss.

The furniture: antique, gifted, found in the neighborhood. On the wall, a huge painting by a friend, still evolving. In the back: a tiny, charming kitchen. And beneath a heavy trapdoor in the floor: Jérôme’s private sanctuary – his wine cellar.

Scattered everywhere: curiosities, photos, books, wine labels. And in between, always bottles. Wine. Life. Memory.

The concept behind Chez Jérôme is deliberately fluid – and that’s exactly its strength. Through his years as a brand ambassador, Jérôme met countless people with impressively rigid concepts for their wine bars and shops. "But the more tightly they clung to their concept, the faster they disappeared – zack, c’est fini, gone," he says with a shrug.

His own approach is more open, more intuitive – and maybe that’s what gives it staying power.

Chez Jérôme is more than a place. It’s fluid. Alive. A place to come together – a social thread. It unfolds every night, again and again.

And as our evening begins, it’s clear: this won’t be the tidy interview I had prepared. Quite the opposite. Over the course of the night, Jérôme will not give a single straight answer. And that, I realize, is the essence – of his concept, his nature: constant motion, creativity, adaptability – always driven by heart.

What he truly enjoys is when the guests create the evening themselves. They become the concept. Just like tonight.

We are eight around the table by now, as two of Raquel’s close friends (Jérôme’s partner) have joined us mid-conversation. And I start to get a clearer picture of what Chez Jérôme is about.

Every Friday, there’s a local Stammtisch. Neighbors drop in, pay for their wine, join the table – and talk. About the wine, the glasses, the music, the light. About life.

That’s Chez Jérôme: it thrives on encounter, grows through exchange, and evolves with each evening.

Thanks to Jérôme’s far-reaching connections, remarkable items keep finding their way into the space. Like an Art Nouveau display cabinet from a once-famous Berlin furniture house. Or a heavy ashtray – a relic of the city's slightly dodgy 20th-century past. Every piece has a story. And Jérôme knows them all.

"Wait, I want to find a text we can read together," he says, flipping through a worn-out book – an original edition, he insists. Then he stops. "Here, you can read this one, Olivercito."

He shows me a passage from Gilbert Garrier's Histoire sociale et culturelle du vin. The chapter is titled: "Propos de Table – The Rules of Regulated Drinking" – originally by Eubulos, an Attic poet from the 4th century BCE:

The first krater is for health.
The second, for love and joy.
The third brings sleep – and the wise go home after that.
The fourth no longer belongs to us. It is the cup of provocation, for fools.
The fifth leads to shouting, the sixth to ridicule.
The seventh to brawling.
The eighth brings in the lawyer, the ninth the police.
And the tenth – that one is for madness.

Jérôme grins. "And no, I won’t ask you which krater we’re on."

What sounds like a playful drinking poem is, in truth, a miniature philosophy of life. The Greeks called it sōphrosynē – moderation, self-control. Virtue wasn’t about not drinking. It was about knowing when to stop. Wine became a measure: those who respected the limit kept their dignity. Those who didn’t found themselves in the tenth krater – the one of madness.

And maybe that’s what makes this text feel so modern. In a time where everything is available, scalable, constantly "more," the idea of enough feels almost radical. The question of "how much is enough" doesn’t stop at the glass.

Maybe this wasn’t random reading after all. Maybe Jérôme’s wine room is just that kind of place: where a little wisdom is served alongside the wine – by the glass.

So what does wine mean to Jérôme?

"Connection," he says. "A social thread. A pleasure."

Then he drifts off, thumbing through another book. "Drunk! has a great bit on that. Or The French Paradox? Back then, people drank a lot more. It’s all about the dose."

Wine, for him, isn’t theatre. It’s not about etiquette or performance. He wants to democratize wine. "You don’t have to be afraid of it. Here in the wine room, people should feel free. Drink what they want. Nothing forced, everything possible."

His relationship with wine is practical, but never cold. "I come from a family of pastry chefs. My father, my grandfather, my great-grandfather – all of them in the bakery. Except me. I’m useless. Truly." He laughs. "But now my son is getting into cooking – so who knows. Maybe the Lejeune line lives on."

When I ask who he’d most like to share a bottle with, the answer is immediate: Telmo Rodríguez. Jérôme worked with his wines from Remelluri and Bodegas Lanzaga back in his days at Véritable, and Telmo stayed with him as a figure of conviction.

"He stands for preserving the cultural heritage of wine. Someone who doesn’t just play the game, but questions it. He knows the laws, the market limits – and still shows backbone."

And what would they drink? "Something unexpected. Not a trophy bottle. Maybe something from the southern Burgundy – Guillot-Broux. Or from Roussillon. Domaine des Soulanes, the white. Slightly chilled. Then we talk."

And then Jérôme says something that lingers:

"The best wine tastes good even alone – if someone asks how you are. Why you’re sitting there. That’s wine."

He says it without any drama, just quietly – eyes on his glass, as if the answer was right there.

I nod. Say nothing. The evening is already in full flow. Laughter bubbles up around us, someone refills a glass, another nearly tips over. The conversation drifts into new directions, the way it always seems to at Jérôme’s table.

And that’s what this place is. No agenda. No script. Just wine, connection – and space for whatever wants to happen.

Chez Jérôme WeinZimmer
Rykestrasse 37
10405 Berlin
Mo.-Fr. 5 - 7 p.m.

Authors note:
I’ve met countless people through wine – but few like Jérôme. He’s not a brand, he’s not a trend, and he doesn’t care about polish. What he does care about is connection, culture, and the right kind of chaos. Writing this wasn’t planned. It just happened – like most good evenings at his table. Maybe that’s exactly the point.

A Living Room for Food, Wine, and Genuine Connections

Dennis Juhl Hansen brought this concept to life a year ago. Once or twice a week, he opens the doors to Café Carlos & Diego’s (more on the name later...). At first glance, it might seem like a cozy bar or restaurant—like an extended living room, with a mix of colorful French bistro tables. Once a week, they serve seriously creative small plates in a tapas style, paired with a curated selection of natural wines and Dennis’s personal obsession: Vermouth and Sherry, served Pincho-style.

The basic idea: bringing people together to have a good time. To enjoy themselves. No profit, no margins, no overpriced and impersonal gastro concept—just a place that thrives on the energy of the people in it. His team works voluntarily, and the revenue simply covers the costs. For Dennis, Café Carlos & Diego’s, named after his two sons, is a passion project. It’s meant to be more than just a bar—it’s a place for people to connect. It's all about making a positive impact in the local community. The café hosts a range of social events, from festive Christmas evenings for those feeling a bit lonely to poetry readings, and wine tastings. A space full of possibilities—but Dennis can tell you much more about it himself when you visit. Reservations are a must.

An Unexpected Find That Was Worth Every Mile

I stumbled upon Café Carlos & Diego’s by chance on Instagram, read a quick blurb about it, and since I love places like this, I thought: I have to go! So, we just jumped in the car. Three hours from Hamburg to Odense, just before Copenhagen. I double-checked that they were open, sent a quick message, and actually scored an extra table at the otherwise fully booked café—because we’d made the trip especially to visit. Thank you for that, Dennis!

We were greeted with a delicious Vermouth on the Rocks, the house specialty. There are 30 different Vermouths on the menu—both white and red. Just as many Sherries, too. I went straight for the accompanying Sherry tasting menu. And throughout the evening, my glass was topped up way more than the menu suggested. Thanks again, Dennis! According to them, Café Carlos & Diego’s offers the largest Sherry selection in the entire country.

A Journey of Pinchos, Sherry, and Natural Wine

Dennis drew his inspiration for this concept from Valencia, San Sebastian and Sevilla —those countless Pincho bars, the casual gatherings, and a little something to eat on the side. Chilled Sherry, Vermouth on the Rocks, and nothing more. The best way to go about it is to choose the set menu—a little bit of everything—because you’ll end up spending the entire evening at Café Carlos & Diego’s, with new dishes being served again and again. There are, for example, caper leaves that taste intensely of the sea and salt, various types of sardines, mussels, and tuna ceviche with coriander and lime dressing. Simply delightful. And to go with it, wines from Koppitsch, Tschida, Les Quatre Piliers, and Rudolf Trossen, whose entire lineup used to be featured at the famous Noma Restaurant. Plus, of course: Sherries from Williams & Humbert, Bodegas Tradición, and Vermouths from Cocchi and Bodegas Barbadillo!

Impeccable Flavors and Unmatched Hospitality

The food is truly fantastic, and we lingered there for hours, with new small plates arriving almost non-stop. The dishes at Café Carlos & Diego’s are incredibly detailed and carefully chosen. Each course was served and explained by different staff members—each in their own unique, kind, and caring way. Dennis’s team seems to get along well, and now and then, a little boy would run through the room, his dad chasing after him. Between courses, the team would sometimes step outside for a quick beer before serving the next round. Everything feels so relaxed and simple, like the team itself were guests that evening. Fun fact: they even play boy band music from 9 to 10 PM (and they assure us it’s worth a listen!)

I’m genuinely impressed and inspired by the attention to detail and the quality of the food served. The Barolo Chinate, the various Sherry styles, the open bottles being passed around, and the generosity of the host really struck a chord with me. It’s truly a fantastic place—something you have to experience for yourself! And I’m sure we won’t be visiting for the last time!

Cafe Carlos & Diegos

Overgade 59B, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Instagram

The nose is deliciously seductive. Fruit pours out of the glass, a potpourri of ripe red cherries, lilac, bergamot, and lavender dancing around my nose. Behind that, it gets playfully sweet, with a powerful smoky note of cedarwood, licorice, and chocolate. Always shifting back and forth with that juicy, thick fruit sweetness – and I haven’t even taken a sip yet.

Wonderfully powerful, yet elegant, it continues on the palate. This 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhône is fresh, almost at what I’d call its perfect drinking window. Now, after being open for half an hour, the wine becomes more serious, developing an insanely compelling drinkability – but be warned: this wine needs time to charm you, to reveal more of itself. I’ll save some for tomorrow, or even the day after.

Because the fascinating thing about natural wines is that they’re constantly evolving. You should never trust the first impression and hastily put them in a box. All too often, this happens during quick tastings: pop the bottle, take a quick sniff, and form a judgement. “Too closed” or “funky.” No – give it the time it deserves. After all, our Prenelle has been resting 24 months in large oak barrels. So please, don’t judge it within the first five minutes.

Certainly not an old-school Côte-Rôtie, but still a fine Syrah signature. Modern in its fruit, juicy, red, spicy, and cool in true Syrah style. Full-bodied, lots of wine, dense structure, insane drinkability – and yet, definitely not an “easy drinking” wine. This is solid quality. Destined for greater things. A granite outpost in the vastness of the Rhône delta, a lighthouse perched on the steep slopes of the “roasted” hillside, the Côte-Rôtie. Damn good stuff. 13% Vol. – Organic. An insanely great discovery – 96 points!

Jessica and Pierre met in Manhattan, by chance, while having a beer on St. Patrick's Day. Jessica, a true New Yorker, and Pierre, a true Alsatian, had their first real date over a glass of wine at a beautiful wine bar (@vsv_winebars), a place they returned to at least a hundred times during their ten years together in Manhattan. At that time, Jessica was still studying and working as an accountant, while Pierre was looking for an internship to gain a foothold in the finance industry.

"In Manhattan, everyone was really working in finance back then." - Jessica

However, Pierre couldn't find a company willing to sponsor his visa. No one was waiting for the "French Guy" from Alsace, especially when there were ten Americans lined up for the same job. So, he turned to the relatively large French community in New York for advice on what to do next. Since it seemed that all the French in Manhattan worked in the wine industry, he quickly started working at a wine shop—a fortunate turn of events, as both like to emphasize.

Their passion for wine was ignited, and they began to spend their vacations exclusively along wine routes. They traveled frequently to France (naturally), visited winemakers, roamed through vineyards, bombarded the vintners with questions, and tasted as much as they could—sometimes three to four times a day at different producers. The best way to learn everything about wine is to visit the wineries and regions, taste the wines, and ask questions.

"I have countless books about wine, and I haven't finished a single one." - Pierre

Why did they keep coming back? "It was a 'Pleasure Thing'," Pierre emphasizes. Before wine, it was just traveling, eating, drinking. And wine naturally fits perfectly into the drinking part. "Et voilà," there it was, the triangle of good food, gastronomy, and good wine. Finding the perfect table and the right wine to set the whole scene in motion. The small villages in the wine regions are brimming with great gastronomy. The Bermuda Triangle of indulgence was discovered.

Thanks to the international wine portfolio of the shop on the Upper East Side, the two of them learned to appreciate the diversity of the wine world. They enjoyed the many facets that wine offers and came to see winemaking as a true art form.

"It's just like when you go to a Michelin-starred restaurant: the plates, the preparation, the thought process behind it. You meet artists and appreciate their art." - Jessica

Pierre began to really delve into the details. He wanted to learn everything and understand every secret of winemaking, while for Jessica, it was more about the emotional component, the where and how. "Where do I want to drink this wine and what do I want to do while drinking it? Do I want to sit in the sun or cozy up with a good book by the fireplace? Something like that."

During their journey, they also encountered many fascinating and diverse people. The winemakers, other enthusiasts they met during tastings—everyone had infinitely interesting stories. They always got the best local tips on where to eat and where to stay from the winemakers.

“The vintners are local; they know where the good stuff is!” - Pierre

After several years touring the wine universes of the Old World, Jessica and Pierre gradually realized they wanted to leave the city. The ceaseless hustle of the big city was exhausting. Moreover, in Manhattan, you only get one week (!) of vacation per year. How could they cover their beloved trips to France with that? "Sorry, no way!" The yearning for Provence was ignited in Jessica by the books of Peter Mayle (A Year in Provence, A Good Year, Ridley Scott—you know the ones). In their tiny New York apartment, she devoured his books. There was sun, there was the possibility of a slower-paced life.

"Hey, they even drive goats through a village during a festival. That must be a lot of fun!" - Jessica

They visited the Luberon region, specifically Bonnieux, a few times to see if Peter Mayle's descriptions were true, and they fell in love with the spot of land at the foot of Mont Ventoux. Initially, they just wanted to rent or buy something small to have a home base. "You know, the usual way everyone does it. Rent it out a bit, and use it themselves, to gradually see if it could be something more permanent." Then came COVID. The quarantine and the small apartment in New York. Being confined suddenly created a completely different kind of pressure. They wanted out. Out of the city. Now!

In May 2020, Jessica and Pierre made their decision, and by June 2020, they were crossing the threshold with two suitcases and a parlor palm, with the help of Jessica's dad, leaving the city behind for Provence!

The apartment they were in the process of buying was furnished, so moving in without their own furniture was relatively simple at first. Pierre’s mother contributed two cups, a few plates, and some cutlery, and that was all they initially had with them. However, France was still in lockdown, and the two slowly began looking for possible jobs at wineries or elsewhere. At that time, they had not yet planned to open their own wine shop, but they were certainly eager not just to drink the local wine at home. They wanted wines from Jura, Loire, Burgundy, Alsace, Champagne, or Côte-Rôtie, and they ordered their wines from a wine merchant in Lyon. That's when the idea struck them.

“Why don't we open our own wine shop? Why aren't we the ones meeting the needs of perhaps like-minded wine fans who, like us, are eager for exciting wines from outside the region?” - Jessica & Pierre

That's how it began. They built up a small, well-curated stock while simultaneously gathering a selection of local producers not commonly found in every supermarket corner. The idea was that while locals or tourists might want to buy a couple of bottles of Luberon wine, they might also enjoy taking something from Alsace home, not wanting to drink the local wine every night. They also considered what people actually want to drink when the summer heat becomes oppressive. “What did we want to drink? What about our friends, who might have different tastes?”

In the area around Bonnieux, more and more young people are opening exciting eateries with local concepts, or starting their own wine production, making micro-cuvées. Like Fabien Chanavas from Domaine du Petit Bonhomme (@domainedupetitbonhomme) who, alongside his main job as a winemaker for a larger vineyard, runs his own small production. Or the owners, Sarah Mottay and Antoine James, who in May this year opened Bistro Francis (@bistrotfrancis) right above Jessica and Pierre's wine shop, serving exclusively natural wines alongside regional cuisine. Like Jessica and Pierre, Sarah also came to Bonnieux during the lockdown, fleeing the tight confines of Lyon and the bleak gastronomic landscape, to build a new home at the foot of the Luberon. "It's shaping up to be a super exciting scene here," Pierre says. "People who are eager to make something happen, to take risks."

Most of the local natural wines end up abroad, say Jessica and Pierre—destinations like Japan, America, and England. With their shop, Jessica and Pierre also aim to give young entrepreneurs the chance to showcase their wines to the local population. Often, these producers don't have the facilities to receive visitors at their vineyards, lack tasting opportunities, or simply don't have the time because they're running a one-person operation. That's where Racines fills the gap. The winemakers tell their interested customers, "Go to Racines in Bonnieux; you can taste and buy my wines there. They know me."

When asked whether they had any formal wine education, like WSET courses or similar, both Jessica and Pierre laugh and say there is no better training than sitting down with a winemaker and asking questions. When they visited Champagne last year, Jessica had absolutely no idea what Champagne was, apart from the fact that it can be happily consumed all day. But after visiting four wineries, walking through the vineyards, tasting the still wines followed by the sparkling ones, she was left speechless by the magnificence of this incredible beverage. No wonder, with winemakers like Chavost or Vincent Couche—both are highly sought-after producers, whose products practically fly off the shelves.

In their portfolio, they currently feature about a hundred producers and approximately 350 wines. Everything is hand-curated, personally visited, and tasted. They know each wine and its story personally, and it's a joy to be advised by them and to catch their passion. Their focus follows their personal passions. Predominantly they drink wines from Alsace, Jura, and Burgundy, but they also have a soft spot for the Loire and Northern Rhône, and indeed—as what drew me into the store—a fantastic selection of local natural wine producers from the Luberon, like Sylvain Morey, or Domaine de L’Or, who follows the typical regional style but makes completely exciting, fresh, and modern wines.

In the coming years, they plan to expand their portfolio further, diversify, and especially in their new store, which will be completed in a few months, offer tastings, organize themed evenings, and perhaps organize a dinner every five months, having the winemakers present.

Currently, Jessica and Pierre are particularly enjoying wines that suit the warming weather. Jessica says, "Right now, definitely Alsace. Solid, crisp Riesling—or lots of bubbles." For reds, they are currently on a Burgundy kick, somewhat of a small revenge because a bottle had spoiled on Jessica's recent birthday, and she is determined to enjoy some good Burgundy wine. So, it's another triangle of preference for them: Alsace, Burgundy, Jura—these are what they drink the most. And of course, local natural wine producers: "La Lumière," whose bottles are "on high rotation" at their home. Jessica's personal highlight while reading a good book is a Chenin from the Loire: "Crisp, beautiful. Tastes like the summer sun." Pierre's favorite is "a calming wine, an Orange Gewürztraminer from Alsace.

“Delicate, thin, unripe apricot, refreshing, with lots of energy, liveliness. A non-linear wine." - Pierre

When drinking with friends? "Pet Nats," definitely. "Love to start the night with bubbles," Jessica says.

So, make a stop at Bonnieux on your next trip to Provence. Or simply contact them via Instagram (@ racinesvins)—they are happy to ship their wines to Germany or wherever else you might want them!

Burgundian traits and a unique microclimate

One who has set out to trace the origins of indigenous grape varieties, with a particular fondness for old vines, is Olivier Pittet. Born in 1975.

He has settled in Fully, which is practically in the valley floor of the Valais, near Martigny. Just before the Rhône makes a bend and no longer flows in a perfect east-west direction, but starts to gradually open northwest towards Lake Geneva. Olivier cultivates about 1 hectare of vineyard, fragmented into many small parcels, which he has gradually acquired since 2005. He still does this part-time, but perhaps another door for expansion will soon open for him. Because Olivier would love to work with wine all day.

Discoverer of lost treasures

A few years ago, during his research, he came across indications of the old and believed-to-be-extinct variety "Grosse Arvine." He actually found a few old vines and rehabilitated them on a small parcel.

Another indigenous grape variety, which existed exclusively around the village of Fully, is Durize, also known by the more melodious name "Rouge de Fully."

Other grape varieties in his portfolio include Petite Arvine, Païen (also known as Savagnin or Heida), Gamay, Syrah, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, and Silvaner. Olivier appreciates this diversity, as he also enjoys experimenting in the cellar, creating different cuvées for some wines in various years.

Fine-tuning in the vineyard

Olivier strikes me as very energetic. I wouldn’t say driven, but he knows what he’s looking for and what kind of wines he wants to produce. Many of his vines are 40 years old or older, and many are traditionally trained as goblets, through which he has quickly implemented a trellis system. He increases the planting density to 17,000 vines per hectare, double the usual density in Burgundy, and besides green harvesting, he doesn’t use pruning. Instead, he trains the vines into a nearly 1.5-meter-high leaf wall and weaves the shoots together. "You don't just cut off a snake's head," he says, meaning that the shoots of the vine are its head, helping it orient and self-regulate. The leaves are small, as are the grapes. Everything already points to what I can expect in the glass: concentration!

Olivier puts most of his effort into his vineyards. Little work is needed in the cellar, he says. He ferments spontaneously and matures his wines in small barriques, demijohns, or clay eggs, utilizing the natural gravity in the processing of the grapes.

We taste:

Durize (Rouge de Fully) 2020, and the 2021 barrel sample

Superb fruit bouquet, very juicy and fresh. Full of ripe fruit. The nose is filled with raspberry and blackberry notes, dark and deep. The acidity is pronounced and fresh, cutting through the fruit and providing good length. I find the fruit a bit warm, not quite harmoniously matched with the cooler acidity. A retasting at the correct temperature would be advisable.

Racine (100% Gamay) 2020, and the 2021 barrel sample

The barrel sample is very fresh, with great drive and juiciness. It’s pure, clean, and jumps out at you. Blueberries, cherries, some tea leaves, and green olive tapenade. All finely balanced. The tannins are light, subtly emphasized, with medium+ length. The bottle, on the other hand, first appears reductive. I get chocolate and green elements. Olivier mentions that some stems are included, and besides destemmed and crushed grapes, he also processes whole clusters. On the palate, the wine is extremely concentrated and brings a fine minerality. Cherry, bay leaf, and kitchen herbs. Again, I find the fruit a bit too warm.

Chimere Rouge 2021 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah) barrel sample

Dense and mineral, but also finely salty. Lots of power. Red and black fruit with roasted notes and chocolate. Always juicy, always long.

Syrah de Fully (Syrah) 2021 barrel sample

Wonderful expressive nose, tremendous density. Red, juicy fruit. However, there's a bit too much tannin (stems), but the fruit is fine, perfumed, very elegant, and beautiful.

Chimere Orange 2018 barrel sample

Almost Madeira-like in taste. Super clean, great acidity. Nothing seems to be missing. Nevertheless, somewhat mature. He’s not yet sure what to do with it. Perhaps he’ll blend it with 2020 demijohn and some 2021 lees to bring back the freshness.

Chimere Orange 2020 (85% Silvaner, 15% Pinot Gris)

Slightly broader on the palate, more glycerin. Also tends towards Madeira-like qualities. Beautifully perfumed, floral, and yellow-fruited nose. The tannin is almost imperceptible.

Les Temps Passé (Grosse Arvine) 2020

Full-bodied, yellow fruit, somewhat alcoholic.

Paien, Grosse Arvine 2020

Mild yellow-fruited nose with beeswax. On the palate, a burst of acidity. Straightforward, fresh, herbal, with a beautiful citrus note.

Petite Arvine 2019

Arguably the best wine. Best nose. Yellow fruit. Flint and salinity on the palate, great density and length. Built to last.

Cultural heritage and foresight into the future

It's worth tasting Olivier Pittet's wines and following his further development. His wines are characterful and unique. His commitment to preserving the indigenous grape varieties of the Valais is also a contribution to the preservation of Switzerland's cultural heritage. Not only in Switzerland are rediscovered "old" grape varieties well-equipped for the climatic changes that the coming years will bring.

Olivier Pittet's wines are currently available through the Brancaia wine shop in Zurich.

SILOS 2021

The nose starts with a subtle crackle. A salty shimmer, a touch of flint, and a cool, citrusy freshness, followed by hints of white peach and tonka bean. On the palate, there's a taut introduction. Juicy, sun-ripened lemons and that same saltiness. You can taste the concentration that such old vines produce, feel the starkness, the limestone on which the indigenous grape varieties Verdeca, Bianco d’Allessano, Minutolo, and Maresco have been harmoniously interplanted for decades, preserving the unique character and DNA of an almost forgotten region. Give the wine some time after opening. Its evolution reveals ever more facets and flavor twists. It's magnificent with a variety of dishes, like fresh seafood with fennel and saffron, for instance.

The Valle d’Itria

Perched on a limestone plateau 400 meters above sea level, less than one hectare is home to the ancient, some even own-rooted, white grape varieties, grown together as was the tradition: Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano, Maresco, and Minutolo. With an annual production of just 7,500 bottles, a wine with a distinctive regional character emerges here.

Italian and Mexican Roots

Roberto Lasorte, born in Rome and CEO of the renowned Querciabella winery in Chianti Classico, is deeply familiar with the intricacies of winemaking. He spent many unforgettable summers and cherished moments on his family's farm in his hometown of Martina Franca. In this extraordinary landscape of the Valle d’Itria, he plans, alongside his wife Stephanie, to preserve a small piece of Apulia's remarkable, cross-generational wine heritage.

Stephanie Cuadra, born and raised in Los Angeles, is a long-time Italian citizen with deep Mexican roots. Stephanie's penchant for niche products and rare grape varieties, combined with Roberto, led to the founding of La Sorte Cuadra in 2020.

Cultural Heritage

The couple's decision to farm and make wine from a mixed vineyard at 400 meters altitude in Roberto's home region near Martina Franca in Apulia during the 2020 lockdown was a clear nod to their roots. From the hand-harvested crop to careful winemaking and minimal intervention in the cellar, the Silos 2021 primarily reflects love and passion for the land.

A Renaissance of Forgotten Grape Varieties

The backdrop of the Valle d’Itria provides a fascinating yet still uncharted rural landscape in southern Italy, where the old native white grape varieties like Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano, Minutolo, and Maresco are now poised to emerge as the new stars of quality-oriented viticulture. While Apulia is famed for its red wines, in the heart of the region, a legacy of old white wine varieties is fighting for survival. Especially the Valle d'Itria, a limestone-rich plateau 400 meters high, presents a unique wine landscape that stands out from the surrounding "heel of the boot." Whereas in other parts of Apulia, robust red wines dominate, here the indigenous white varieties are the main act, nurtured by the altitude, sunshine, and sea breezes from both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.

In this extraordinary geological and historical setting, a new brand emerges, dedicated to preserving the winemaking, culture, and traditions of Puglia.

Dark straw yellow in the glass. It almost looks a bit like pear juice. And voila, there it is: The nose is wonderfully "peary" too. Notes of ripe fruit and blossoms. A scent like a lush bouquet of flowers on a late summer evening. Honey, caramel candy and pear tart.

Spices, Herbs, and Sea Breeze in a Bottle

The nose is delicate, playful. Charmed. On the palate, it then shows itself to be surprisingly taut and compact. However, my initial surprise quickly gives way to a logical conclusion: The wine is absolutely harmonious and radiates pure joy. A good grip holds me tight, is both spicy and fresh at the same time. Like a mint candy in a herb shop. Alpine herbs, verbena, and linden blossoms flow with the sea breeze. The skin contact is good. Not too tight, just right for a fine tautness. At the same time, a delicate salt note also comes through, which reminds me of that Grenache Blanc.

A Grape Tale of Harmony

Grape varieties that are naturally developed often show themselves differently than the conventionally learned taste profiles. But here everything seems to fit. Perfectly balanced and well-crafted. For me, a wonderfully made natural wine. Perfect for an evening Pissaladière :). Thank you, Antje, for the wine. Thank you, Silke, for the inspiration.

Where to Buy This Gem?

Bought, where else, at Kühne Lage: Schützenstrasse 39 in Hamburg Altona.
But it's surely also available online for the rest of you out there.

Once again, I have the privilege of attending this magnificent preview event, where the crème de la crème of German winemakers present themselves to industry insiders and unveil their new vintages. The Kurhaus Wiesbaden is the perfect location for this tasting. Everything feels so festive—the chandeliers, the aesthetics—and watching the illustrious audience of top sommeliers, merchants, trade press, and international wine critics as they sample the wines is equally impressive.

Fine-Tuning Excellence: Upcoming Changes to German Vineyard Classification?

On the second day, Steffen Christmann, the current president of the society, made an interesting announcement: starting this year, the vineyard classification will be reevaluated. This is also part of integrating Erstes Gewächs (First Growth) and Großes Gewächs (Grand Cru) into German wine law. From my perspective, this makes perfect sense. In the future, vineyards will not only be classified solely based on historical viewpoints and records but will also take into account critics' feedback, wine quality, and the reputation of the vineyard. This process will be ongoing, and every five years, the vineyards will be re-examined to ensure they still meet the high standards of the association. This might be particularly interesting considering that many wines were available for tasting at the event, and some delivered questionable quality, despite being supposed to represent the pinnacle.

The 2022 Vintage Unveiled: A Challenge of Fruit and Nuances

But now, onto the main event—the new vintage: While 2021 focused on acidity and freshness, 2022 is all about the fruit. Sometimes it's more pronounced, almost ripe, and at times it comes across too sharp. But then again, it beautifully complements the wine's structure, wrapping around its essence like a golden blanket, adding body, volume, and fullness. In the best cases, it's a perfect interplay and harmony. Most winemakers have mastered this challenge beautifully, and it was a delight to sample the new vintage in Wiesbaden. Here, I present my personal highlights. Of course, the list is incomplete—sampling 471 wines in three days is nothing short of an athletic feat.

Part One: Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder)

Ahr Valley

We start at the Ahr with Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder). How was the year 2021? This question overshadows perhaps the worst event in the valley's history. It's the flood vintage, whose high waters nearly swept away the entire valley, and nobody really thought that serious qualities would emerge from this vintage. Yet, au contraire, what I have in my glass is by far the best expression of the 2021 Pinot Noir from Germany. One thing seems common to all the wines: the taut and fresh acidity, coupled with a delicate perfume note. Some are on the riper side, and in others, you notice the use of whole grapes in the fermentation. The use of wood is subtle, and the finest, most captivating examples clearly come from Meyer-Näkel. I also find the early Pinot Noir (Frühburgunder) interesting every year, here from Deutzerhof.

Deutzerhof Herrenberg 2021

Beautiful, pure cherry fruit, raspberry, and strawberry. On the palate, pure, juicy, with a slight stem approach, but not unpleasant. Has something slightly bitter, quite beautiful. – 93 Points

Meyer-Näkel Sonnenberg 2021

Finely perfumed nose. Some lilac, hibiscus, and a complex fruit profile evident in the nose, cherry, strawberry, some licorice, and a hint of mint. On the palate, taut, compact. Surprisingly grippy. The backbone of the wine, the acidity, this grip, wow. Again, this potpourri of fruit—sour cherry, black currant, licorice, and a touch of mint. Long-lasting and grand. - 97 Points

Meyer-Näkel Kräuterberg 2021

Meyer-Näkel's wines are a work of art. This captivating, multi-layered nose that envelops you. Red fruit underscored with oregano. On the palate, a bit more bitter than the Sonnenberg. More stems and green notes give it some edges and at the same time a long-lasting structure. Exceptionally elegant in its manner. Some rose petals and lilac join in the finish. - 96 Points

Franken

In Franken, the fruit ripens, but by no means with less grip on the palate—quite the opposite, as demonstrated by Fürst.

Rudolf Fürst Schlossberg 2021

Fürst's expression from Schlossberg starts off with a light animalistic note that quickly disappears behind a lovely, yet confusing? zucchini note and chalk. On the palate, this chalky grip is the first thing you notice—wet chalk describes it best. The wine is highly serious and powerful. Quite impressive with a long finish. – 95 Points

Rheinhessen

In Rheinhessen, the duo Kühling-Gillot Battenfeld-Spanier impresses me the most. Simply a beautiful vintage with such pure and juicy fruit. Both produce consistently great wines. Wagner-Stempel also impresses me with his Heerkretz.

Kühling-Gillot Kreuz 2021

Alluring with a clean nose, playfully feminine, with a touch of cherry, licorice, and lilac. On the palate, it is also very rounded and balanced, with rich fruit, almost compote-like. – 95 Points

Battenfeld-Spanier Kirchenstück 2021

Comes across as multi-layered. A captivating nose, lots of red fruit, strawberry compote, and cherry. On the palate, it's subtly balanced; everything is in the right place. A well-integrated acidity plays with fine tannins, underscored by just the right amount of woody notes. Sandalwood. Great length. – 95 Points

Wagner-Stempel Heerkretz 2021

A lovely, deep nose. Olive tapenade, forest berries, and chervil. On the palate, it's fresh and slightly bitter. Wonderful. – 94 Points

Pfalz

In the Pfalz, I'm faced with quite a line-up, so let's dive straight into the tasting notes without further ado.

Rings Saumagen 2021

It also has a slight reduction, but less than Felsenberg. Extremely fresh, soy sauce, Pu-Er tea, and faded magnolias. And very powerful, captivating. – 96 Points

Christmann Idig 2021

The nose is fine, balanced. There's a hint of soy sauce, something green, and a nice fruit compote. On the palate, it lines smoothly, fine and round. Like a carpet unfurling. Beautiful wine, elegant and fine. – 94 Points

Friedrich Becker 2020

Friedrich Becker presented three 2020 vintages from his vineyards Sankt Paul, Heydenreich, and KB. It was by far the roughest tannin that has flooded my cortex during this tasting. But I know what these wines can do if they've slumbered somewhere for at least 10 years. Behind this potential lurks such fine fruit, pure and incredible grip. Even the color is still so pure and youthful. Go for the long run – it will be great. – (95-97) Points

Baden

In Baden, there are several candidates that have convinced me. Naturally, I had high expectations for Franz Keller, but this time my favorite was Salwey. His entire portfolio at this tasting is simply top-notch. Stigler is also excellent and my new discovery in the region. Of course, the wines from Julian Huber are grand, but I had mixed feelings as I observe his wine style in several winemakers, even in France, aiming for more freshness and less alcohol. But isn't this more a matter of style rather than origin? A fascinating question worth discussing. Baden, alongside Ahr, certainly represents the best of German Pinot Noir. That much is clear.

Salwey Eichberg 2021

Salwey also brings a seductive depth to the bottle with his 2021 Eichberg. One can feel the vintage, the freshness. Salwey fully embraces the fruit, which is juicy and underlined by a fine minerality reminiscent of flint or chalk. Great wine. – 96 Points

Franz Keller Eichberg 2021

That nose. Alluring, so typical and expressive. A successful combo of freshness, just the right amount of roasted aromas, fine tannins, and juicy fruit. – 96 Points

Stigler Winklerberg Pagode 2019

Also very fine, a bit volatile at the beginning, then strawberry. Taut, juicy, wicked acidity, blue berries, blackberry, forest berries, mint. Superb. – 95 Points

Bernhard Huber Sommerhalde 2021

I have to think of DRC (Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) - whole grape fermentation, picked a bit too early? Lots of tobacco leaf on the nose, very fresh and taut with beautiful blue fruit. Juicy, yet still a bit stubborn. – 96 Points

Part 2. Silvaner

My feelings on this year's Silvaners from Franken are mixed. On the one hand, the acidity was quite sharp, and I missed the soft, creamy, yellow-fruit character, which, on the other hand, the Rieslings completely nailed. Rudolf May is a safe bet, and Zehnthof-Luckert is truly grand. I'm also a fan of Juliusspital Würzburg.

Rudolf May Himmelspfad 2022

The Himmelspfad starts off a bit reserved, showing a little stone fruit and is extremely fresh, reminiscent of freshly harvested grass. Some verbena and sweet apples emerge with increasing aeration. On the palate, it really takes off, showing incredible drive, and again that slightly greenish bitterness. Smoke, flint, and a chalky note that I also noticed on the nose. Long-lasting and powerful, sharp with a hint of ginger on the finish. – 95 Points

Zehnthof-Luckert Maustal 2022

A bit on the ripe side, but wonderfully fresh. Cool, ice-whipped yogurt with candied lemon. Certainly, the finest expression of Silvaner so far. On the palate, back to the usual style. Razor-sharp acidity provides the backbone, and a fine bitter note gives it good length. – 95 Points

Juliusspital Würzburg Stein-Berg 2021

So beautiful and fine. Peach, creamy candy, and a fine mineral grip. On the palate, taut, pulling, with a light bitter note, and fine creaminess. Good wine. – 93 Points

Part 3. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay

My favorites in this section this year clearly come from Baden again. With no grape variety were the differences between the 2021 and 2022 vintages as distinct in expression as with the Pinot Blanc. It was evident who could integrate the warm fruit of 2022 and how wonderfully fresh the 2021s are. But there were also favorites in the Pfalz. And finally, Julian Huber deserves praise for his insane Chardonnay.

Pfeffingen Herrenberg 2022 Pinot Blanc, Pfalz

Cool creamy yogurt, damp stone with fine minerality. On the palate, extremely taut with a smooth cream component. Well made, albeit still on the reductive side. – 93 Points

Ökonomierat Rebholz Im Sonnenschein 2022 Pinot Blanc, Pfalz

Im Sonnenschein initially shows reductive, then behind it beautiful melt and taut, herbaceous acidity. – 94 Points

Salwey Kirchberg 2020 Pinot Blanc, Baden

Beautiful pear fruit, expressive with fine melt. Behind it, the cool stone. Like at the entrance to a cave. Then on the palate insane acidity, taut and compressed grapefruit peel. Very demanding, slight reduction but good. The best up to now. – 95 Points

Franz Keller Bassgeige Kähner 2021 Pinot Gris, Baden

A crackle of finely ground stone, unripe pear, and a bit of exotic fruit. On the palate very taut, citric-herbal, reminiscent of tonic water. – 94 Points

Salwey Henkenberg 2020 Pinot Gris, Baden

Here it gets a bit riper. Exotic, lychee, smoke, and some tire scuff. Maybe all at once. The mental picture is complete. On the palate, it stays ripe, slight phenolics blend in, and again this bitter note in the finish. – 95 Points

Franz Keller Kirchberg 2021 Chardonnay, Baden

A creamy start. Delicate white flowers, fresh magnolias with some honey. The nose is enchanting. Yogurt, nougat is in play. Absolutely harmonious and balanced, further showing almond blossom, sesame, apricots, and lemon cheesecake. Truly long. Great wine. – 97 Points

Bernhard Huber Schlossberg 2021 Chardonnay, Baden

Wow, I bow down. This is flint and smoke. It vibrates; it radiates. On the palate then pure concentration, and insane freshness. This wine has to age for decades, it brings so much potential. So beautifully juicy without falling apart. An insane length, it forever narrows down, dries out, becomes salty and remains as a crystal on the tongue. High class - 98 Points

Part 4: Riesling

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Let's start with Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. It appears that 2022 reveals a riper stylistic approach than 2021. Some wines bring a lovely exoticism, as demonstrated by Van Volxem's Bockstein, as well as a distinct stony aromatic profile. The fruit is more present in many wines than it was in 2021, yet they display a poignant and formative acidic structure surrounded by fine fruit. This is lovely, yet sometimes it also feels somewhat warm, hot, giving the impression that the power of the fruit has not yet properly found its place in the wine.

Van Volxem Bockstein 2022

The Bockstein brings lovely exoticism to the nose. Ripe apple, pears, and seductive, soft on the palate. Yet its strength is clearly noticeable. - 94 Points

Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp 2022

Almost sweet on the nose, yet there's also a slightly reductive note. Extremely complex in aroma. Lemon peel, orange zest, nutmeg, and gradually peach and pear join in. On the palate, it is incredibly taut, grips, doesn't digress, and stays forever long. Cool, fresh and salty, powerful and elegant at the same time. Great cinema. - 98 Points

Maxim Grünhaus Abtsberg 2022

Initially restrained, gradually grassy spicy notes show themselves. Some apple peel, lemon yogurt. Then ultra polished on the palate, precise yet surrounded by ripe fruit. Grapefruit juice, lime, and tonka bean. Hats off. - 95 Points

Nahe

For me, the Nahe is simply a highlight. So precise, long, and playful at the same time. The perfect expression for this grape variety. Clear favorite: Schäfer-Fröhlich. I just love this style—initially reductive, then the pull and grip, and so much joy to drink.

Emrich-Schönleber Frühlingsplätzchen 2022

Cool yellow stone fruit, very harmonious right from the nose. Then taut, serious, and warm on the palate. Very much on the expressive side, powerful. Peach and mango notes join in. Long finish. – 95 Points

Schäfer-Fröhlich Frühlingsplätzchen 2022

Strong reduction at the beginning. Typical Schäfer-Fröhlich. Behind it, awesome flint, pull, tautness, and juiciness. Wow, what an entrance. A fine tannin lays itself on my front teeth, lines the palate, vibrates, and stays forever long. Top-notch. – 95 Points

Dönnhoff Dellchen 2022

Very elegant nose. Also balanced. Greek yogurt, cream candy, meadow herbs like chamomile, behind it peach, nectarines. Then on the palate, wow, full power. Full surprise moment. Sorrel, tangerines, lemon peel. Very complex and taut with formative, clear acidity and an everlasting aftertaste. – 97 Points

Franken

This year, the Rieslings from Franken caught my eye in a positive way. As described at the beginning, it seemed to be vice versa this year, and the Rieslings show beautiful expression due to the warmer vintage. Once again, it's my favorites Zehnthof-Luckert and Ludwig Knoll who impress.

Zehnthof-Luckert Maustal 2022

In short: So taut, so beautiful. Cool and stony. Outstanding. – 94 Points

Weingut am Stein – Ludwig Knoll Stein 2021

Wow, captivating. Cool yogurt. Taut freshness, soft balance. Outstanding. – 94 Points

Rheinhessen

From Rheinhessen, the trio of Kühling-Gillot, Battenfeld-Spanier, and Wittmann clearly impressed me.

Kühling-Gillot Hipping 2022

Hipping introduces a lactic component to the nose. Also on the fruit-forward side again, which I love about Kühling Gillot. The floral signature comes through on top. A smoky component develops with increasing air exposure. Complex in the nose right off the bat. On the palate, it's balanced and solid. No breakout star, but elegantly self-contained. The aromatic complexity continues on the palate. It's a quiet wine, and that's precisely why it's so exciting. – 95 Points

Battenfeld-Spanier Frauenberg 2022

Full concentration on Hans-Oliver Spanier's Frauenberg. Taut minerality. Perfectly integrated fruit component and spot-on balanced. – 96 Points

Battenfeld-Spanier Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott 2022

Wow, even more concentrated, taut, and powerful. And so well restrained. Lots of smoky notes, flint, and salinity. Good reduction that doesn't clash. – 97 Points

Wittmann Moorstein 2022

Super. Some vanilla in the nose, apple slices from the fridge, pear juice. Interesting. On the palate, again classic Wittmann style. Steps up, has pull, length, and presence. Slightly below Kirchspiel in style, but also good minerality and this slightly drying chalkiness on the palate with a light herbal note. Very good. – 94 Points

Pfalz

The Pfalz region presents an overall non-homogeneous portfolio this year. Perhaps a bit too warm, presenting a challenge. Steffen Christmann's Idig is mighty. Other highlights for me include Rings and Pfeffingen. The selection was extensive, and I also enjoyed the portfolios from Basserman-Jordan and initially Reichsrat von Buhl, although they too often played the vanilla card. The Rebholz brothers were also good.

A. Christmann Idig 2022

Soft tones from Christmann's Idig, as always it starts very reserved on the nose. It needs time. Initially, slight salinity emerges, some chalk, seashells. Then the fruit comes slowly, very lightly, pear. On the palate, strength, thrust forward. Stone, dryness, lemon verbena, allspice. Quite the wolf in sheep's clothing; the length is phenomenal. – 96 Points

Rings Saumagen 2022

Again, slight reduction, the cool rock. On the palate, then, awesome, again the stone, salt, but also bitter notes, chervil, almonds, green walnuts. A wine with edge. – 94 Points

Rings Weilberg 2022

Ooh, a beautiful combo of flint and elderflower blossoms. No reduction here, pure mineral. Taut on the palate, nicely lining it with spicy salinity. Elderflower blossoms, blackthorn, great length. – 94 Points

Pfeffingen Weilberg 2022

Another beautiful expression of Weilberg. Less stone, but a bit more expansive with yogurt notes and apple tart. On the palate, then, intense concentration and power without being expansive. Top. – 94 Points

Rebholz Kastanienbusch 2022

Full-on Timut pepper on the nose. That juniper note, awesome. Great pull, excellent freshness, fun, balanced, doesn't feel heavy. What's exciting is the spiciness and heat that blends in. Outstanding! – 98 Points

Conclusion

Not much more needs to be added. I think the tasting notes speak for themselves and provided a lot of input. Of course, the wines are young and still need further development. More background on individual wines would be exciting to read, but this report is rather a snapshot, and perhaps some will reappear in a more intensive tasting or even a vintage vertical. It's clear that the vintage is polarizing, as seen in the Pfalz and Franken. Even more delightful was the presentation of the 2021s from Ahr.

It's definitely a snapshot, a slice of time in bottles, reflecting the great skills of the German winemaker scene. Not all have convinced, and I welcome Christmann's announcement for the re-evaluation of classification. Just as no year is like another, we must understand the wines in their creation, what factors played a role, and who made them. Context is what I say. Because they're not just the end product in a bottle; they are witnesses of time, not just of terroir, but also of skill.

A big thank you to the VDP, Theresa Olkus, and the whole team, and all the helpers who provided a perfect tasting.

Grange des Pères rouge 2020

The nose practically leaps out at you. Such pure, honest fruit, layered with delicate animalistic notes, some forest floor, and mushrooms. Enchanting. Now come blueberries, currants, iron, fresh leather. Incredibly complex. And it keeps alternating: earth, fruit, meat, back to fruit—this wine unfolds a magic as if you've discovered the wonders of the world—so impressive that a sip almost seems redundant.

On the palate, a true revelation. So velvety and full of energy. So smooth and intense at the same time. So well-balanced, everything is in its right place. The astonishment captures me, and I am speechless. My enthusiasm dances like a pendulum between these fine aromatic nuances. I don't even know where to start—this is truly the epitome of a cult wine.

With increasing aeration, the nose becomes spicier, and more tobacco leaves come into play. On the palate, it becomes tauter; you can feel the freshness and the pull. The strength of this wine certainly lies in its elegance. At first, it deceives you, for its great potential still lies hidden and slumbers behind youthful zest, which delights us already but will undoubtedly gain in depth and radiance in the future.

A Magical Spot on Earth

An insane wine. I'm thrilled. I'd love to add an older vintage to the mix to see how the wine evolves and changes over time. And overall, I want to drink more from this domaine. The whites, too, because Laurent had been mentored by greats like Jean-François Coche-Dury from Meursault, Gérard Chave from Hermitage, and Eloi Durrbach from Domaine Trévallon in Provence. The area around Aniane, the entire Herault department, and the Larzac have been among my favorite regions since my youth. All the more, I can feel a strong connection to this rugged landscape in his wines.

Château Batailley: A Historic Gem in Bordeaux's Cinquièmes Crus Legacy

Château Batailley is one of the oldest châteaus in Bordeaux and is one of the 18 châteaus classified as 'Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growths)' in the Official Classification of 1855. In fact, it got its name from the time of the Hundred Years' War, when it was the site of a famous battle. It is one of the best-selling wines in the annual En-Primeur campaigns from Bordeaux. Since 2015, the château also produces a second wine 'Lions de Batailley' as well as a third wine 'Pauillac de Batailley'

1982

Stands firm. Blindly, I would have guessed it was from the late 90s. Still fruity, purely fine and ethereal. The colour is still vibrant, just a slight brownish rim. As it gets more air, it becomes more leathery, almost too much at times. It's considered or was considered one of the perfect vintages. Super distinct and supportive acidity. So fresh and spicy, kitchen herbs. Light-footedly dancing.
99 pts.

1990

The nose is more substantial, dense, and compact. Very enchanting, red fruit, cherry and even a hint of strawberry compote, bergamot, Oolong rock tea, pencil lead. On the palate, it's very forceful with an intense, dense fruity juiciness, almost somewhat unpleasant, and a slight alcoholic finish. More coconut and cedar in the middle. The tannins are fine but still dry. The style is more power-driven, showcasing the difference from the early 80s. Oregano. 96 pts.

1995

The nose leans back to the 82's style; initially closed-off, it then reveals elegant fruit, ethereal oils, pencil lead, tar. On the palate, it's washed out, quite literally. It's starting to get a bit mouldy now, closing up and lacks length. The weather? Too unripe? 93 pts.

1996

The nose is almost atypical, a little off, a hint of volatile adhesive. On the palate, however, it takes off. Taut cool black cherry. Cassis. The tannins are still taut, it still needs ages, powerful traction and yet elegance. 97 pts.

2000

Very smooth nose, red-fruity, soy sauce. On the palate, it's voluminous, but with fresh, taut acidity and a good backbone. Sadly, it's atypical with little character, but from a hedonistic perspective, "Worth the Money for Investors". 92 pts

2005

2005, like 2000, was considered a fantastic year. It would have been intriguing to see how the youngest vintage in the lineup compared. Unfortunately, our tasting bottle that evening was corked.

The Intricacies of Vertical Wine Tasting Through the Decades

What's fascinating about such a vertical tasting is that one can sense the influence of critics and market trends in the wines. Of course, it's spectacular when an outstanding vintage presents itself so perfectly in the glass - but how a style changes from one decade to the next due to these influences - that's what made this tasting so captivating for me. My clear favourites from the tasting were 1982 and 1996.

(this text was written as part of my work as Wine Buyer for Tesdorpf GmbH, Château Batailley wines are available for purchase there: Buy Château Batailley at Tesdorpf.de)

Thomas Farge took over his father's estate in 2018 and has been doing great things ever since.

Granite

The northern Rhône, that is granite. The eastern foothills of the Massif Central, a huge granite rock, mainly determine the soil structure. The rock is very old and shows different forms of weathering in different places. Granite consists of different minerals, such as mica, feldspar or quartz, which in turn decompose at different rates. Thus, over the millennia, a diverse mix of soil types has developed, eroded by exposure to the sun, the great differences in temperature, wind and rain.

The Heart and Soul

In a way, Saint-Joseph is the heart and soul of the Northern Rhône. The original core area of Saint-Joseph comprised six communes: Glun, Mauves, Tournon, Lemps, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols and Vion. And a small outstanding single vineyard, "lieux-dit Saint-Joseph" north of Mauves gave the appellation its name back then. Other famous single vineyard sites are: Le Paradis, Le Clos and Vignes de l'Hospice. Another 20 communes were then added when the appellation was expanded in 1969, and the original cultivation area of Saint-Joseph increased from 97 to around 1400 hectares today.

Family Affairs

The history of Domaine Guy Farge begins as early as 1920, in the then core area of the appellation, in the commune of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Henri Farge bought 12 hectares of land at that time and delivered his grapes to the local cooperative until Guy Farge, at that time still production manager of the cooperative Cave de Tain, decided to press his own wine from his grapes. With his knowledge and ambition, Guy Farge realised his life's project as the completion of his ancestors' path, combining his work as a craftsman and his respect for nature and tradition.

In 2018, his eldest son Thomas Farge took over the winery, and began to work even harder according to ecological and sustainable principles, pushing ahead with the conversion to organic viticulture.

Sustainability

Standing in the small car park in front of the domaine, you have to bend your head quite a bit, and stagger slightly, in awe. For only manual labour is possible on these steep slopes. For Thomas Farge, it was already clear when he took over that the work in the vineyard and cellar should be done according to organic guidelines, and he gradually reshaped Domaine Farge so that with the 2021 vintage, all wines are certified organic. All work is based on the lunar calendar, because the moon's gravitational pull influences the flow of juice in the vines, among other things, and therefore determines the time for gentle pruning. Bottling also takes place on optimal days.

Finesse

Thomas Farge's wines are consistently finesse-rich and elegant, and his white Saint-Josephs are highly regarded in French gastronomy. However, they mainly produce red wine from 100 % Syrah. No other red grape variety is allowed in the northern Rhône. And the white wines consist mainly of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier. The white parade varieties of the region. His IGP Collines Rhodaniennes, Bouquet de Syrah and Bouquet de Blanc, come from a small parcel outside the village of Lubac at 400 metres above sea level.

A clear vision

Thomas Farge is constantly busy and highly focused. He is always refining his signature since the takeover, and it may well be that the line-up of wines will change and focus even further. Thomas Farge has a clear, modern vision in mind, and smaller joint ventures, such as the "Oxymore" project, which was created together with Stéphane Usseglio from Domaine Raymond Usseglio in Châteauneuf-du-Pape to deal with the increasingly hot years and rising alcohol levels, are also broadening his horizons and enthusiasm.

It is not only the French gastronomy or Rhône freaks who have an increased interest in the region. In this country, too, it is no longer a secret that the wines of the Northern Rhône are experiencing a small renaissance. This is due, among other things, to a small group of top producers like Thomas Farge, who are helping the region with new ideas and a clear vision of the future to produce elegant, fresh wines with a strong character and a clear reference to the terroir.

(this text is a copy of my work as Wine Buyer for Tesdorpf GmbH, Thomas Farge's wines are available for purchase there: Domaine Farge auf Tesdorpf.de)

Surrounded by old stone walls, gorse bushes and wild garrigue, the 18th century estate is set in the rolling hills of the Languedoc, its vineyards facing south like an amphitheatre. Lidewij van Wilgen has lived on the estate for 20 years and, as owner and winemaker, is responsible for the extraordinary success of Terre des Dames.

Back to nature

Lidewij originally studied communication and wanted to become a journalist, but ended up managing the strategy department of a large advertising company for a few years. Over time, however, the desire for a more honest life closer to nature grew in her. She moved to France and began studying oenology at the University of Bézier before taking on responsibility for the winery and winemaking.

Ecological balance

Born in the Netherlands, she values the idea that her work helps to preserve 24 hectares of land and therefore works consistently according to biodynamic principles. A natural herb culture ensures an ecological balance in the vineyards all year round and also serves as a natural pest controller. 14 hectares of vineyards, divided into 25 small plots, are in yield, while the remaining part of the estate provides balance for fauna and flora through natural tree and bush cover and retains moisture, which in turn makes the vines less susceptible to disease. Several underground springs and rivers also provide cool, mineral freshness at the roots, which is also reflected in the wines.

Gentle processing

The vines, which are up to 100 years old, are harvested and selected exclusively by hand, and the yield remains below 35 hl per hectare. The vinification also follows gentle and minimally invasive processing steps.

The wines are sometimes matured in Burgundy barrels made of the finest French oak, as well as in clay amphorae, in order to preserve the fruitiness and minerality of the wines.

What is bottled is natural gentleness, pure, unadulterated and the finest expression of terroir.

Heaven on earth in the glass!

(this text is a copy of my work as Wine Buyer for Tesdorpf GmbH, the wines of Lidewij are available for purchase there: Terre des Dames bei Tesdorpf.de)

"You have to do it like Roquefort" - this is exactly what no less than Hugh Johnson himself recommended to the VDP ((the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) more than 20 years ago, when the Association was preparing to catapult itself back onto the stage of the world's great wines. The vision: a clearly outlined and consistent implementation of a designation of origin for German wines. Roquefort was the first "appellation" that prescribed in which area, from which sheep, in which cave, and how long matured a "cheese" could finally call itself Roquefort. This demarcation ultimately helped the noble mouldy product to achieve world fame. Everything else (Cheddar, for example) is just "cheese" - Hugh Johnson said with a smile.

On the eve of the premiere of the Grosse Gewächse in Wiesbaden, the VDP honours the founders and members of it’s association with a beautifully made image film, its 20th anniversary, and provides insights into the development of today's 4-level site classification pyramid: Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage and Große Lage. It is a tribute and a touching document to the newly increased self-confidence of the association, which was practically on the brink of collapse after bitter historical setbacks. The VDP pin of honour was awarded posthumously to Bernhard Breuer, who was one of the most consistent advocates of the strict implementation of classification.
Theresa Breuer found touching words of thanks, and simply wished her father could stand here and witness this. Like a phoenix from the ashes, - or from the Roquefort cave, a new era of German wine is rising. Dry wine, of course.

The guests of the evening are not only allowed to watch films, but also to taste. More than 20 vintages are available and are presented to the professional audience in a small speed tasting by winemakers, with winemakers. Afterwards, things get a little sweeter and the party goes on deep into the night with "Kabi" (short for Kabinett). It is a successful prelude to the most important event of the year for German wine, - the premiere of the Grosses Gewächse 2021. Thank you VDP.

The VDP is celebrating its 20th anniversary, and I, as a fresh buyer for the house of Tesdorpf, am there. For the first time, I am allowed to attend the premiere of the Grosse Gewächse in Wiesbaden. The best Germany has to offer. It's a great location here in the Kurhaussaal Wiesbaden, and the event is well thought-out at its best. This is how I want every wine tasting to be organised from now on. The number of seats is limited, and I feel honoured to be able to sit in the main hall of the Kurhaus alongside all the Master Sommelières, Master of Wines, wine critics, buyers, bloggers and influencers. The weather is brilliant, sunshine all day, and the beautiful cut glass beaded curtains cast a glitter and a touch of splendour on my tasting table.

Of course, I'm not here just for fun, the programme is tight. Almost 500 wines are to be tasted and evaluated. I'm excited about the new vintage, - but I also think it's great that I'm being served a cross-section of the country here, - a vinophile journey through one of the most exciting wine-growing regions of the old world. It is history that pours into the glass here. 

Silvaner

On the first day of the three tasting days, everything can be tasted, except Riesling. I start in Franconia, because Silvaner is one of my favourite grape varieties. And I find what's happening there all the more exciting. There is a wide variety of styles, some are still classic, a little broader in appearance and with a fresh grassy, but also slightly tart acidity - and others really knock your socks off with their straightforwardness and minerality, the finely developed yellow fruitiness and their fine melting.

Julius Spital Würzburg

For me, the Julius Spital Würzburg with their Julius Echter Berg 2020 is the opener: yellow-fruity, chalky nose. A smoky, salty tone resonates. "Uuhh, now we're talking." Density, tautness comes into play here. Very compact and layered flavours. Gooseberry, grapefruit peel and some honey are at play here. Lots of freshness and an astringent saltiness, like licking a flint. - Great cinema.

Bickel-Stumpf

Another highlight is Bickel-Stumpf with their 2020 Mönchshof. Reduced but complex nose. There is of everything, but everything is finer, more restrained. Wow, again this tautness on the palate, this drying saltiness and light spiciness, underpinned with a gentle honey note, lots of apple fruit and freshness - great length, lots of potential.

Zehnthof-Luckert

The masters of subtlety have been convincing me for a long time: Zehnthof-Luckert. I describe their 2021 Sulzfelder Maustal as follows:
Luckerts are once again masters of the filigree, almost of the spiritual. It comes across as very fine, gently pronounced yellow fruit that gives way to more and more stony tones the more air it gets. On the palate, the acidity sets the tone, it is fresh and green-herbaceous, with a tart note, less dense than the Mönchstal from Bickel Stumpf, but with an incredible length.

Weingut am Stein - Luwig Knoll

Then it really starts with Weingut am Stein, with the Stettener Stein 2020.
Knoll is just great. It brings this smoky, subtle stone fruit to the nose, almost beguiles with its fine complexity, and then strikes razor-sharp on the palate. This is yield reduction par excellence, a fresh, steely acidity pushes inexorably through layers of rock, stays true to the varietal character and plays with gentle honey notes and apple compote until the whole thing ends in a long, salty, herbaceous finish.

Rudolf May 

But the grand master is simply Rudolf May. His 2021 Rothlauf is sensational.
The 21 Rothlauf comes with fine, subtle stone fruit on the nose, and opens up increasingly, moving from white peach to ripe apple. Arrives opulent on the palate, brings a golden glow. It is dense, has a great pull, but always remains fresh and discreetly fruity in the foreground. Behind it, a salty minerality pushes steadily towards a great finish. The wine becomes more and more complex the longer it gets. it's crazy what happens at the end.

Weißburgunder

Ökonomierat Rebholz

I didn't find Pinot Blancs as strong as the Pinot Gris, but Im Sonnenschein 2021 by the Rebholz brothers is definitely worth mentioning here: beautiful nose, yellow-fruity bouquet of peach with a little exoticism at play. A fine minerality is present, which continues on the palate and takes the leading role. Paired with a fine tannin, it provides the platform to embed the gentle tones of the vine clover and hibiscus blossoms.

Münzberg - Gunter Keßler

A new discovery was Gunter Keßler's Münzberg with their Godramsteiner Münzberg Schlangenpfiff 2021. Slightly dull, numb nose, but with fine creaminess, white flowers and a touch of honey. Impressively, after the first sip, an intense herbaceousness suddenly emerges - reminiscent of gooseberry. Taut on the palate, a little green tart acidity, medium plus, all in all fine but demanding. good concentration, tending towards green-fruity citrus. slightly mineral melting.

Grauburgunder

Then to Pinot Gris. The grape variety that, along with Chardonnay, is gaining the most new vineyards in Germany. Here I start in Baden.

Franz Keller

Franz Keller's Achkarrener Schloßberg 2020: Beautiful fruit in the midst of lots of stone. Lactic notes and slight honey glints. Harmoniously balanced components on the palate. On the one hand pressure and length with lots of minerality, in between green tart notes and some stone fruit. Very long finish. Big.

Salwey

But Salwey really convinces here with the 2019 Eichberg:Ooh, great warm yellow nose. Honeypot, yellow fruity apricot, white peach and apple. On the palate then quite pressure, great thrust and fresh juicy acidity, underpinned with more discreet fruit and much more concentration and minerality than the nose would suggest.

Chardonnay

We stay right in Baden, and now the music is playing, with Chardonnay. Here, all the producers I taste are really great class.

Bernhard Huber

But then, thunder: Bernhard Huber's Malterdingen Bienenberg 2020: I don't think it can get any better than this. Huber is king. This washed-out durian note in the nose, deep and beguiling, not at all the typical yellow honey nose. There is melting and a few green herbal notes. The palate is amazing. So concentrated, so dense and a fine tingling minerality. The acidity is perfectly integrated, the length never stops. The durian has disappeared - the wine is big! 

Spätburgunder

J. Neus

There was a lot of Pinot Noir to taste, so I will only present a small selection here. In some growing regions, a very warm fruit shines through. E.g. Ahr or Pfalz. All in all, Rheinhessen is very strong. I was surprised by J. Neus' with his Ingelheimer Horn, and Pares - both 2020. The Pares: fine nose, potpourri of cassis, elderberry and strawberry with a slight hint of menthol. On the palate, a great pull with a freshness and lightness, like a mint =)

Keller

But the race is clearly won by Keller with the Nieder-Flörsheimer Frauenberg 2020: Restrained on the nose, goes back towards strawberry with some kitchen herbs. Wow, what's going on on the palate is super delicately tuned, quiet and incredibly fun. Quite finesse-rich and full of pressure, the fruit never gets lost, - it always envelops the spicy, umami-like core, which pushes forward and unfolds more and more. Everything is in its place! Great.

Berhnard Huber

The 2020 Malterdinger Bienenberg from Julian Huber: somewhat reductive, red-fruited. It's amazing what comes into the glass here. Pure concentration. Like a flower whose individual leaves are still curled up, waiting to expand and shine. Concentrated competence.

Franz Keller

But Franz Keller also shows what he can do with his 2020 Oberbergener Bassgeige Steinriese: More blue-fruity on the nose, similar style. Even denser, even more reduced, almost exhausting, that's how concentrated it is. Lots of blue fruit, blueberries, oregano, tarragon, Maggi herb, lilac and bergamot. 

What Keller and Huber bring to the bottles here is far from any comparison. The whole 2020 vintage is simply phenomenal from them.

Riesling

Van Volxem

I just plunge into the sheer quantity to be tasted and start at the Mosel/Saar/Ruwer. Van Volxem presents a beautiful collection for me. The wines are all incredibly fresh and juicy. For example, the Ayler Schonfels 2021: fresh citrus nose with a hint of flintiness and slight astringency reminiscent of tomato stems. Very juicy on the palate, not at all artificial acidity, but the ear pops. Flavours grassy green with nice exoticism, some roasted ham, good length.

Clemens Busch

But then on to Pünderich, Clemens Busch and the breath freezes. The 2021 Marienburg starts out buttery soft on the nose, creeps up on us subtly and unagitatedly, and then really hits the palate. Unbelievable intensity, again these stone layers with this razor-sharp acidity that stretches like a tightrope between two mountain boulders. The highlight of his collection for me, however, is the Marienburg Rothenpfad 2021.

Heymann-Löwenstein

Just like the Marienburg Rothenpfad from Busch, both wines from Heymann-Löwenstein get 98 points from me: The 2021 Hatzenporter Kirchberg starts like this: yellow apple on the nose, some rubber and banana. Somewhat riper aromas on the palate which are very nice, also with a lot of pressure behind it. I would say the perfect template for a Riesling that needs to mature. Lots of minerality and saltiness, a bit of pear, rosemary, sunshine. Great!On to the 2021 Stolzenberg with more creamy opulence in the glass. A slight petrol note resonates. Also very nice aromatics on the palate. More restrained than Kirchberg, gentler you could say. Is already big!

Weingut am Stein

And Ludwig Knoll with the 20 Stettener Stein: creamy, subtle nose, wonderfully fresh on the palate. Green tart apple, not intrusive, just juicy and awesome! The Nahe wins for me in the entire tasting. The wines have grit, an intellectual coolness, a stoniness and compactness that I personally really like in a Riesling.

Emrich Schönleber

Emrich Schönleber's Monzinger Halenberg 2021, for example, is one of these representatives: The nose is very fine and multi-layered. It resonates with many things - and you have to peel off the individual layers beforehand. Just like when you peel a grapefruit, the first ethereal scents are released when you break open the peel, you bite into the flesh and then you have the smell of the peel on your hands - last but not least, a Fishermans Friend on top, and you've arrived roughly where I want you to be. And we haven't drunk yet. But don't worry, the same continues in about 10s of potency on the palate - a great wine - even if it comes apart slightly exotically on the finish.

Dönnhoff

Dönnhoff's Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle 2021 sounds like this:Or the 2021 Dellchen comes across a little warmer, has more exoticism on the nose. Some banana, cream candy and fresh white peach. On the palate again this slender, elegant train. A smoky, granitic vein runs through some grapefruit peel, cloves resonate, the finish is long and straightforward.

Kühling-Gillot

In Rheinhessen, I really like the collection from Battenfeld-Spanier and Kühling-Gillot. Caroline Spanier starts with her Niersteiner Hipping 2021: a somewhat herbaceous basil nose, but then tautly mineral on the palate, light-footedly elegant without losing pressure, has a beautiful fruit held together by tart notes and a slightly warming finish. Pettenthal and Ölberg are also great from her.

K.F. Groebe

A discovery of this premiere for me was K. F. Groebe, their auction wine Westhofener KIRCHSPIEL 2016 Grande Réserve, which I was allowed to taste on Sunday amazed me. All the more I was looking forward to other wines: Westhofener Kirchspiel 2021: Fine beguiling nose. Has a hint of everything in it. Banana, cream yoghurt, fresh white peach and a slight hint of ham. On the palate, opulently expansive, sweet citrus fruit, taut acidity, warm and mouth-filling. Or their interpretation of the Aulerde 2021: clear peach nose, incredibly fresh and juicy on the palate with good tension and filling minerality. Grapes, banana, passion fruit and a little blossom make it beautifully complex.

Wittmann

And Wittmann's Aulerde 2021 is also beautiful: more of the riper exotic style on the nose, "nerdy durian" I say to that. Seems sweet, and then pushes a lot of opulence and smoky minerality on the finish. And then, Morstein Rules. Wittmann's Westhofener Morstein 2021: cool nutty vein on the nose, some flint. "Now we're talking". It's dry from here on - steely acidity drills into the rock, it's juicy, it's delicious, it's gooseberry bitter with a salty finish, very cool. In Rheinhessen, there was a lot of sweetness for me that often bothered me a bit and gave the wines a honeyed finish.

Reichsrat von Buhl

In the Pfalz, I found von Buhl's collection very surprising. For example, the 2020 Forster Pechstein:But the Jesuitengarten from the same vintage is also beautiful: waxy yellow-fruity nose, full on the palate, clear beeswax and some plum. Great stuff.

Christmann

Christmann's Idig 2021 has truly grown up: A restrained, somewhat alcoholic bouquet of ripe pure citrus fruits and a saltiness that tickles the nose. Behind it, it continues with slightly grassy fresh tones. On the palate, it remains in beautiful tension, balances the juicy acidity skilfully between a discreet tannin and fine ginger spiciness, rolls back over the freshly mown meadow once again and moves towards a stony, salty finish once more. Great wine.

Ökonomierat Rebholz

And of course I was delighted with Rebholz' Birkweiler Kastanienbusch 2021, which rounds it all off with 97 points: A cool yellow stone fruit comes out of the glass, paired with fine minerality. The palate is full and taut with cool green apple, an acidity that keeps everything in check. Nothing breaks apart, compact, you can really feel the sandstone lining your mouth, dry fine it goes into the finale. great wine.

Conclusion

With 241 wines tasted in three days, I'm only just over halfway through the entire range, but it couldn't have gone any faster. And even though I had to write my summary in such a short time, many wines have only been in the bottle for a few weeks and need their resting time and the right setting to open them and enjoy them with dignity. For they are all great, and have made it into the ranks of the Grosse Gewächse.

My personal favorites

Silvaner

2020 Stettener STEIN - Ludwig Knoll, Weingut am Stein
2021 Thüngersheimer ROTHLAUF - Rudolf May

Weisser Burgunder

2021 Godramsteiner MÜNZBERG SCHLANGENPFIFF - Münzberg, Gunter Kessler

Grauer Burgunder

2019 Oberrottweiler EICHBERG - Salwey

Chardonnay

2020 Oberrottweiler KIRCHBERG - Franz Keller
2020 Malterdinger BIENENBERG - Bernhard Huber

Spätburgunder

2020 Ingelheimer PARES - J. Neus
2019 Westhofener BRUNNENHÄUSSCHEN - Gutzler
2020 Nieder-Flörsheimer FRAUENBERG - Keller
2020 Hecklinger SCHLOSSBERG - Bernhard Huber

Riesling

2021 Hatzenporter KIRCHBERG - Heymann-Löwenstein
2021 Bockenauer FELSENECK - Schäfer-Fröhlich
2021 Monzinger HALENBERG - Emrich-Schönleber
2021 Niederhausener HERMANNSHÖHLE - Dönnhoff    

more on: Tesdorpf.de

Drink now. Gaze at the bottle and enjoy the great moment.

I discovered this wine in a small, fine natural wine shop here in Hamburg, and had to buy it immediately. Something immediately appealed to me when I saw this bottle. The archaic nature of a clay bottle, the logo, the writing? I had to have it, - and I had to open and taste it the same evening. And I am so thrilled!

But perhaps first: what kind of wine is this anyway?

Well then. Cabernet Sauvignon from wild vines, harvested by hand and aged untouched for 332 days directly in Qvevre (the amphorae, .-> Georgia, -> you know...) buried in the vineyard. Without sulphur, without anything. And yet with everything it needs.

The Schmelzer winery is located in Gols, on Lake Neusiedl, and works according to biodynamic guidelines, --> Demeter certified.The first sip, fresh, fruit, full, - and tannins. But not at all obtrusive. However, they discreetly push themselves into the foreground, step aside again and make room for the fruit, exchange themselves. Freshness again, then again with pressure. Always powerful, vigorous, thoroughly self-confident, its own identity, life. The effect manifests itself right at the front of my forehead, as if something pushes itself up from the shallows, takes you in and thrills you!

A good wine is a wine that occupies me, whose history and production fascinate me, that is complex and I can always discover something. A wine that will remain in my memory.

And this is definitely one of them. Thank you dear Bagalutes. To be continued...

Of course, this chapter still needs to be told. What is it about the wild wine, what does the winery look like, and what do the Schmelzers' other wines taste like? I'll stay tuned and report back!

Weingut Schmelzer
Heideweg 3
7122 Gols, Österreich
+43 699 17705166
+43 699 111 88 309
wein@schmelzer.at

Die Weinbagaluten
Martinistraße 16
20251 Hamburg
+49 (0) 40 76487631
hello@weinbagaluten.de
Öffnungszeiten:
Dienstag bis Samstag 14-21 Uhr.

I still remember the first time we crawled up the steep access road full of potholes to the Fattoria in our little Fiat 500. We rented a small holiday flat on the estate, and it was one of our most beautiful Italian holidays ever!

14.5 hectares are cultivated according to organic criteria. In addition to Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Trebbiano and Malvasia are cultivated. Louis Chollet, who at that time was the only inhabitant of the estate, comes from a winegrowing family from Bordeaux and decided without further ado to prove his skills with the Sangiovese grape.

And wow, -he really succeeded!

The Black Rooster, Il Gallo Nero, is dense and complex.

The seal of quality, or rather the indication that we are here in the core area of Chianti, the "Classico".

And I am very impressed. Here comes power, body, an incredibly well-balanced interplay of tannin and acidity. Cherry compote, some vanilla, caramel, warm liquorice and light eucalyptus. A perfect example of what Sangiovese can do when allowed to rest and mature!

Handpicked, spontaneously fermented and aged for 12 months in French oak.

I ordered 6 bottles, told everyone about this wine and brought it to tastings. I'm out of it and desperately need more!

Fattoria Cerbaia
Strada di Cerbaia 16
50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (FI), Italia
www.cerbaia.com

We start "bone dry" with a great vintner's sparkling wine from Braunewell in Rheinhessen. A "Blanc de Blanc" - you know, only Chardonnay grapes are in it, "Brut Nature" - that is, without subsequent "sugaring", sparkles brilliantly down our throats and is suitable - according to my table neighbour - for celebrating all night long. We continue to Piedmont, to Vietti - one of the 25 best producers of Barolo. However, we stick to white, namely a very fresh, blossom and melon-scented "Roero Arneis" from 2017. A great wine - with chicken, mussels or, as I find, just like that. The evening picks up speed. The round becomes relaxed. Dietmar pours more. Riesling. Grosses Gewächs. BattenfeldSpanier. Frauenberg. 2011. Programme. A hammer wine. Golden colour. Fine melting, lots of mineral, light acidity and spicy aromas that reflect its origin in a perfectly balanced way. Great to taste what Riesling can do!

We continue in the Grosse Lage, just one cellar door away, to Kühling-Gillot with their Pinot Noir from the "Oppenheimer Kreuz" 2013. You know, I like Pinot Noirs very much and especially when they start in the nose like this one! This beguiling scent of berry compote, a little leather and herbs. Definitely worth a recommendation. Then, jump into Bordeaux. To St. Emilion to Domaine Bouyer with their 2012 "Clos de la Cure". For me, the highlight of the evening and a personal favourite. Bordeaux is not everyone's cup of tea, and choosing the right wine still overwhelms some connoisseurs. But Antje & Dietmar proved to have a good feeling for well-balanced wines from Bordeaux. Powerful, spicy, dense and warm. At the same time filigree and fine. "Just a Frenchman".

It is still getting warmer. We travel on. Spain. Ribera del Duero. The realm of the Tempranillo. Here, however, the grape is called "Tinta del Pays" and differs in having smaller grapes and thicker skins, which results in a more concentrated must. And that's what we have in the glass now. "15 Meses" from Bodega Vizcarra. A great bouquet of pepper, eucalyptus and coffee pours into our noses, -and I assume directly into the first place of some beaming faces at the table. Really delicious. Spanish, earthy, dense and strong.

We finish happily in France again. Southern Rhone, Domaine de la Janasse (a classic for Kühne Lage connoisseurs) with their "Les Garrigues" 2014. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre is one of my favourite combinations, and here it shows itself elegant, herbaceous and finely combined.

The desire for strong, sun-drenched southern French wines arose after all, and so Dietmar opened another bottle of "Cairanne" from Domaine Roche. Also a "Cotes du Rhone", but stronger and spicier. Quote Dietmar: "A worry breaker that is unparalleled for this price." And with its 15 revolutions I manoeuvred myself happily, but at a moderate pace, through Ottensen afterwards.

We were a good group, there was delicious tarte flambée non-stop, and Dietmar's way of telling the story reflects his great passion and pleasure in personal contact with winemakers, visiting the wineries and selecting well-balanced, attractively priced wines.

A lovely event for anyone interested in wine. A perfect Christmas gift it might be too....

The wines were priced from 17-45 euros, and are all available at Kühnen Lage.

Kühne Lage
Schützenstr. 39, 22761 Hamburg
Email: info@kuehne-lage.de
Web: www.kuehne-lage.de
Tel: 040 - 32 51 24 04

Opening hours:
Tuesday - Friday: 11 - 23 Uhr
Saturday: 11 - 18 Uhr

In Eppendorf, not far from the Kellinghusenstraße underground station, lies Beverly's little Wine Saloon. She wanted a place modelled on the original bars: get in quick, have a drink, tell a story about life - and move on. A dynamic oasis of laughter and extremely exclusive, fine wines. Oh, and the nasty messes of, among other things, Serrano ham, delicious bread, olive oil with salt crumbled over it, which Beverly serves with a grin.

Beverly wants to offer her guests wines that they don't know yet. From producers with whom Beverly has a personal relationship and wines of which she is particularly proud: from South Africa, e.g. Samantha O'Keefe from Lismore Estate Vineyards, Eben Sadie with The Sadie Family Wines or the Mullineux family from Swartland already mentioned here. Then there is Susana Esteban from Portugal or the Tschida Winery from Illmitz, Austria. Of course there are also German wines, and here again a rarity, -the only winery, - Schmitt from Rheinhessen, which presses the Albariño grape. (Albariño, Portugal, -you know.)

Beverly, what kind of wine do I drink with a good crime novel?

B: It should also be exciting. Red wine. It's best to start with "Chapter 1" and then "DomKapitel" at the end. Both by Tschida, Illmitz.

Tonight I'm cooking for friends. Which wine can I enjoy alone in the kitchen?

B: Well, you have to come in first, right? You'll drink something fine with it. Scheurebe from the Paul Weltner vineyard, Franconia. You have to come in slowly.

And slowly but surely, you too should drop by Beverly's, be surprised by her range and her charm.

Bottled wines from 8 to 98 euros. Changing open wines on offer, always with a personal recommendation. Always a homemade soup (Beverly's speciality), and little "piggies" to snack on.

Calistoga Wine Saloon
Goernestraße 7 20249 Hamburg Tel. +49 40 8460 9317 E-Mail: beverly at calistoga.eu

Opening hours:
Tu. – Wed. 15.00 – 19.00 Uhr
Thu. – Fr. 12.00 – 22.30 Uhr
Sa. 12.00 – 19.00 Uhr.

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A delicious range of small dishes rounds off the selection of wines. First and foremost the delicious tarte flambée, or the homemade pesto's Verde and Rosso. Of course, there are also the classic olives, capers and cheese - "comme en France". The wines on sale start at 5.90 euros (Casa Rosso Romagnoli) up to 60 euros for some mature Pinot Noirs, for example from Huber or Stodden, to the sophisticated Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Most wines, however, remain between 7 and 10 euros and can, of course, be tasted right away in the bistro for a corkage fee, should you actually not have discovered anything on the open wine list.

At regular intervals, there are wine seminars or music events organised by the 40 chairs. Twice a year, book and wine lovers meet at "Bücher und Wein" in cooperation with the Osterstrasse bookshop.

Okay. To start with, - tonight we're having asparagus, and I need a delicious wine. What should we have?

D: The classic Silvaner is best. For example, the estate wine from the Rainer Sauer winery.

The alternative?

D: For me, although they say that wines with less acidity are better with asparagus, a mature Riesling. For example, the Kabinett from the Johann Geil winery.

How long has the Kühne Lage been around?

A: The Kühne Lage has been around for 11 years now, and in the beginning it was really still a "bold location", i.e. a lot of work for no money. At that time, the population structure was completely different - some people walked past our shop with blinkers on, because there was never anything in the area and everything went up to Ottensen. It was only after eight years that someone from the neighbourhood asked us: "Say, you're new here too, aren't you?"

What do you drink from Monday to Friday?

A: We always try our wines, of course, and then also our favourite grape variety, Riesling, or the Silvaner from Sauer, which we like to open up as a food accompaniment.

What are your favourite grape varieties?

D: Actually white: Riesling and red: Pinot Noir. A: Mine are also white: Riesling, Silvaner, -and red: Gamay. A very underrated grape variety (Beaujolais), and I could sit in it.

And at the weekend?

D: At the moment, with asparagus, we go for Rainer Sauer's "Freiraum", a single-vineyard Silvaner.

What is your favourite book at the moment, and what wine do you drink with it?

D: Oh God, I'll have to ask Antje... I still read a lot of trade magazines, of course.

A: You're reading Deon Meyer, the South African crime writer.

D: Then a South African Pinot Noir, bought somewhere else. (Laughs.)

A: And I would drink a strong Southern French wine, for example the "Orfèvrerie" from the Domaine Bort in the Languedoc.
(You'll have to ask Antje about which book).

So let's go to Kühne Lage, for a wonderful attitude to life and charming, good-humoured owners.

Kühne Lage Schützenstr. 39, 22761 Hamburg
E-Mail: info at kuehne-lage.de Tel: 040 - 32 51 24 04

Opening hours:
Monday - Friday: 11 - 23 Uhr
Saturday: 11 - 18 Uhr
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