Château Batailley 5eme Cru Classé Pauillac Tasting
a vintage vertical spanning three decades
The beauty of living in a big city is that you can just be invited to a tasting on a Tuesday evening – and have the opportunity to attend a vintage vertical of a famous 5eme Cru Classé Château from the left bank. Thank you, Tesdorpf, and thanks to Katharina Iglesias from the WineBANK Hamburg, who guided us through the tasting.
Château Batailley: A Historic Gem in Bordeaux's Cinquièmes Crus Legacy
Château Batailley is one of the oldest châteaus in Bordeaux and is one of the 18 châteaus classified as 'Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growths)' in the Official Classification of 1855. In fact, it got its name from the time of the Hundred Years' War, when it was the site of a famous battle. It is one of the best-selling wines in the annual En-Primeur campaigns from Bordeaux. Since 2015, the château also produces a second wine 'Lions de Batailley' as well as a third wine 'Pauillac de Batailley'
1982
Stands firm. Blindly, I would have guessed it was from the late 90s. Still fruity, purely fine and ethereal. The colour is still vibrant, just a slight brownish rim. As it gets more air, it becomes more leathery, almost too much at times. It's considered or was considered one of the perfect vintages. Super distinct and supportive acidity. So fresh and spicy, kitchen herbs. Light-footedly dancing.
99 pts.
1990
The nose is more substantial, dense, and compact. Very enchanting, red fruit, cherry and even a hint of strawberry compote, bergamot, Oolong rock tea, pencil lead. On the palate, it's very forceful with an intense, dense fruity juiciness, almost somewhat unpleasant, and a slight alcoholic finish. More coconut and cedar in the middle. The tannins are fine but still dry. The style is more power-driven, showcasing the difference from the early 80s. Oregano. 96 pts.
1995
The nose leans back to the 82's style; initially closed-off, it then reveals elegant fruit, ethereal oils, pencil lead, tar. On the palate, it's washed out, quite literally. It's starting to get a bit mouldy now, closing up and lacks length. The weather? Too unripe? 93 pts.
1996
The nose is almost atypical, a little off, a hint of volatile adhesive. On the palate, however, it takes off. Taut cool black cherry. Cassis. The tannins are still taut, it still needs ages, powerful traction and yet elegance. 97 pts.
2000
Very smooth nose, red-fruity, soy sauce. On the palate, it's voluminous, but with fresh, taut acidity and a good backbone. Sadly, it's atypical with little character, but from a hedonistic perspective, "Worth the Money for Investors". 92 pts
2005
2005, like 2000, was considered a fantastic year. It would have been intriguing to see how the youngest vintage in the lineup compared. Unfortunately, our tasting bottle that evening was corked.
The Intricacies of Vertical Wine Tasting Through the Decades
What's fascinating about such a vertical tasting is that one can sense the influence of critics and market trends in the wines. Of course, it's spectacular when an outstanding vintage presents itself so perfectly in the glass - but how a style changes from one decade to the next due to these influences - that's what made this tasting so captivating for me. My clear favourites from the tasting were 1982 and 1996.
(this text was written as part of my work as Wine Buyer for Tesdorpf GmbH, Château Batailley wines are available for purchase there: Buy Château Batailley at Tesdorpf.de)