Domaine Montirius
Eric Saurel has been a winemaker for as long as he can remember. His parents, grandparents and even further back to the 15th century produced wine here. However, when he took over his parents' estate with his wife Christine in 1986, things changed. Eric wanted to improve the quality of the wines and what his vines produced early on. So he relied on his gut feeling and tried new things. Little by little, they abandoned pesticides and the plants thanked them for it. A little later, they became aware of the biodynamic way of working and realised they were on the right track. In 1996, the estate converted completely to biodynamics and became the first certified biodynamic winery in the Gigondas and Vacqueyras appellations.
For Eric Saurel, biodynamics is a basic attitude. A cycle. Give and take. A beautiful approach that works. The wines of Domaine Montirius are appreciated.Montirius, the name derived from the names of his children Manon, Justine and Marius, covers 58 hectares of vineyard, divided into 38 plots. They produce AOC Gigondas, AOC Vacqueyras in white, rosé and red, AOC Côtes du Rhône as well as Vin de Pays de Vaucluse. And Eric describes working with the vines as if you were looking after your fourth child.
Some of the vines are 80 years old and have taken deep root. According to biodynamic principles, Eric does not irrigate his vines artificially, -no, -they get by with what nature and the climate offer. They are helped by so-called mycorrhizae, (little nice fungi) -which occur naturally in healthy soil-, and which bind themselves to the roots of the plant. This enables the vines to draw considerably more nutrients and water from the soil, and at the same time these little helpers also give life back to the soil through photosynthesis taking place above ground - a cycle that Eric impressively demonstrated to me directly on site.
Another experiment is to cultivate different grape varieties on one plot in order to prevent deficiency symptoms, among other things. If, for example, a single plot were planted only with Mourvèdre grapes, it is possible that iron deficiency would appear in the form of yellow leaves, since Mourvèdre alone cannot draw enough iron from the soil. If, on the other hand, a row of Grenache grows that can absorb enough iron on its own, the above-mentioned mycorrhizae combine underground, thus helping the Mourvèdre to get enough nutrients. In addition, another, new form of these fungi develops at the root. A dynamic process, so plausible and mysterious at the same time.
I think that's what touches me when I take my first sip of these wines. Immediately having the feeling of having both feet on the ground, feeling the heat and breathing in the spicy air.
I could listen to Eric for much longer, I am fascinated by every step of the process. Because in the cellar it gets even more complex and here, too, the work steps are a harmoniously interlocking game. And even during the two years of maturation in cement tanks, the "nursery", as the lowest level of the cellar is affectionately called, the wines are accompanied by words, information, lovingly written down on a chalkboard by Justine - the eldest daughter - following her inspiration.
If Eric were a vine, he would be a Bourboulenc. In his growing region, of course. Because the Bourboulenc, an old and often misunderstood grape variety that does not seem to ripen properly, Eric has brought it to perfection by harvesting it rather late, so that it can fully ripen. It gives the white Vacqueyras "Minéral" a wonderful mineral freshness halfway through.
Montirius is a great winery, a wonderfully nice family and I am extremely grateful that I could use this short visit to ask Eric and his daughter Manon a few questions. By no means has everything been told here, -and perhaps there will be a sequel. In any case, I will enjoy the wines I brought with me.
Montirius
Christine and Eric SAUREL, winegrowers
Justine and Manon SAUREL, winegrowers
1536 Route de Sainte-Edwige
84260 SARRIANS ( See the map )
Tel : +33 (0)4 90 65 38 28
Fax : +33 (0)4 90 65 48 72
Email
GPS :
N 44° 06′ 06. 3 – E 004° 57′ 24.8
Altitude : 98 meters